Make this beautiful ensemble and dress up your little one…
- Vinnis Colours Nikkim (DK, 119m/50g): 1(2,2) ball(s) in Pale Lilac (587)
- 3.5mm crochet hook
- tapestry needle
- stitch marker
FOR THE SKIRT
- 3m nylon mesh or soft tulle
- needle and thread
- thin ribbon
CHRISTENING DRESS MEASUREMENTS
Age: 3-6(6-12,12-18) months
Actual size, chest: 16(17.5,19)cm
Actual size, back to waist: 16.5(18,20.5)cm
To fit, chest: 21(22,24)cm
To fit, back to waist: 15.5(17,19.5)cm
4 repeats of Harriet Lace pattern and 20 stitches – 10cm x 10cm worked using a 3.5mm hook.
NOTE The crocheted top is worked in the round from the bottom up. The straps are added front and back and sewn up at the top. The shell stitch border is added to the bottom of the top.
ch – chain; 1(2)ch-sp – 1( 2) chain space; beg – beginning; beg puff – puff stitch; dc – double crochet; fhtr – foundationless half treble crochet; foll – following; htr – half treble crochet; lp(s) – loop(s); pc – picot rep – repeat; RS – right side; sh st – shell stitch; sk – skip; slst – slip stitch; st(s) – stitch(es); tr – treble crochet; v-st – v-stitch; yoh – yarn over hook
A fake stitch creates a neater end than fastening off with a slip stitch.
Leave the hook in the lp made with the last st. Cut the yarn with enough length for sewing in the end. Now pull the lp, which is on the hook up but moving the hook away from the work. This will pull the yarn end out of the stitch.
Don’t worry the work will not unravel!
Thread the yarn end onto the tapestry needle. Insert the needle through the first stitch of the round, from the front of the stitch to the back. Lastly, insert the needle between the two loops of the last stitch made. You should now have something that looks like a proper crochet stitch.
FOUNDATIONLESS HALF TREBLE CROCHET
3ch, yoh, insert hook in third ch from hook, pull up lp, yoh, draw through 1 lp (the “ch”), yoh, draw through 3 lps (the “htr”). *Yoh, Insert hook under 2 lps of the “ch” st of last st and pull up lp, yoh, and draw through 1 lp, yoh and draw through 3 lps; rep from * for length of foundation.
3ch, slst in 3rd ch.
Beginning puff stitch: 3ch, yoh, insert hook in designated st, yoh, draw yarn through st, yoh, draw yarn through 2 lps on hook, insert hook in same st, yoh, draw yarn through st, yoh, draw yarn through 2 lps on hook, yoh, draw yarn through all lps on hook.
The beginning puff stitch is only used at the start of a row where the puff stitch is used. It will not be specified in the pattern.
Remaining puff stitches: yo, insert hook in designated st, yoh, draw yarn through st, yoh, draw yarn through
2 lps on hook, yoh, (insert hook in same st,yoh,draw yarn through st, yoh,draw yarn through 2 lps on hook) twice, yoh, draw yarn through all lps on hook.
[(puff stitch,2ch)2 times, puff stitch] in st indicated.
(tr,2ch,tr) in stitch indicated.
Make 84(104,132)fhtr, slst to first fhtr to form a ring. Make sure the row isn’t twisted.
1st round: 5ch(counts as tr and 2ch-sp of v-st), tr in same fhtr as slst, sk 2 fhtr, 2ch, dc in next fhtr, *picot, 2ch, sk 2 fhtr, v-st in next fhtr, 2ch, sk 2 fhtr, dc in next fhtr, rep from * across to end, 2ch, slst to 3rd ch at beg of round.
2nd round: *sh st in next v-st 2ch-sp, 1ch; rep from * across, slst to 1st puff of sh st.
3rd round: slst into 1st ch of 2ch-sp, 2ch (counts as htr) in next 2ch-sp, 1ch, htr in next 2ch-sp, *1ch, htr in next chsp, (1ch,htr in next 2ch-sp)2 times; rep from * across to last sh st, 1ch, slst to 2nd ch of 2ch (counts as htr).
4th round: 5ch(counts as tr and 2ch-sp of v-st), tr in same ch as slst from prev round, sk 1 ch-sp, 2ch, dc in next htr, *picot, 2ch, sk 1 ch-sp, v-st in next ch-sp, 2ch, sk 1 ch-sp, dc in next htr, rep from * across to end, 2ch, slst to 3rd ch at beg of round.
Rep Harriet Lace 2(3,4) times. Rep 1st and 2nd round of Harriet Lace once for all sizes.
For the bottom edge
1st round: slst yarn to the last fhtr, slst to 1st fhtr made to close the fhtr round. 4ch (counts as tr, 1ch-sp), *sk 1 fhtr, tr in next fhtr, 1ch, rep from * across, slst to 3rd ch of 4ch.
2nd round: 1ch, dc into same ch as slst, *6 tr in next tr, dc in next tr, rep from * across.
Finish with fake st into 1st dc made.
Cut yarn and sew in loose threads.
To make the straps
Slst yarn to centre puff of 2nd(2nd,3rd)sh st, from the seam for first strap (back), 6th(8th,9th) for first strap (front), 9th(11th,14th) for second strap (front), 13th(17th,20th) for second strap (back).
1st row: 3ch (counts as htr,1ch-sp), htr in next 3 puff, turn.
2nd row: 1ch, dc in same st, 2 ch, sk 1ch-sp, v-st in next ch-sp, 2ch, sk 1 ch-sp, dc in next st, turn.
3rd row: 3ch (counts as tr), sh st in v-st 2ch-sp, sk 2chsp, tr in next st, turn.
4th row: 3ch (counts as htr,1ch-sp), tr in next 2ch-sp, htr in next st, turn.
Rep 2nd – 4th row 1,(2,2) times.
Sew the straps up at the top.
Cut yarn and sew in loose threads.
TO MAKE THE SKIRT
- Thread the ribbon through the openings at the bottom of the crochet top, allowing adequate room for stretch, and leaving enough ribbon to tie a bow once finished. Turn the crochet top inside out.
- Cut a template of a circle with a 50cm diameter. Using the chalk or tailor’s pencil, trace the circle template on the material, and cut out as many circles of material as there are visible sections of ribbon along the crochet top.
- Lay a circle in front of you, and at the point indicated on the diagram, pinch the material with your fingers (at roughly the 38cm length and 25cm width mark) to create each drape.
- Hand sew the drapes onto each section of ribbon, ensuring the drape lies correctly when turned right side out.
Magazine issue date: October, 2014